inque Terre was every bit the dream I expected it to be. In person, it feels as if you are living each day in a postcard. The towns were amazing, the views were amazing, the sea... ahhh, amazing. The only thing that was less than amazing was the weather. It was May and the skies and temperatures were still very much in spring territory - grey, cold and rainy. It put a bit of a damper - literally - on the seaside holiday I had in my head, including the Mediterranean swims I was hoping for, but somehow we managed. 

We stayed in Riomaggiore at the most impressive apartment (that window, above, was seriously ridiculous and half our photos with it in the background look as if it's just a beautiful painting up on the wall, rather than an opening to real life outside) for an incredible deal for what we had. We did our first apartment stay on our trip to Paris, and I must say, I'm hooked. Your own kitchen, no housekeeping to get in your way, the feeling of living like a local - you can't beat it. It also makes things like making coffee in the morning and being able to live on take-out rather than expensive restaurants more of a reality. I can't recommend it highly enough. 

Other than one whole rain-soaked day we all spent indoors reading The Hunger Games, we managed to do a good amount of exploring around the five villages. We did the Via dell'Amore (Lover's way), which is a cliff-side trail that went between Riomaggiore and Manarola, where we stopped for some of the best gelato (out from the train station and up on the left) and focaccia (La Cambusa) I've ever had. The sun finally started to come out that day just as I was admiring the clear, teal water in the most perfect swimming spot in all of Cinque Terre, only to realize not only would I have to peel off four layers of clothes, but the water itself was still ice cold. A few brave girls went for it and everyone in town gathered to watch and cheer them on. We did manage to make it down to Monterosso's rocky beach in time for a little laying out in the sun and to dip our toes in the freezing sea while it was still light enough to do so.

On another day, we made it to Vernazza, the town most ravaged by the floods last fall. While much of the main street's buildings were still being worked on, seeing the photos of where they had to dig out from shows how far they've come. We enjoyed lunch there on a massive outdoor patio literally right on the sea and even though the food was mostly so-so tourist fare, it felt good to bring at least a bit of business to this town that's still  rebuilding. 

We also made a stop in Corniglia, the only one of the five villages not at water level, which meant a massive, nearly 400-step climb up the cliff from the train station. Our brief stop there offered tasty frozen lemon drinks and beautiful views - not to mention a charming canine mascot who overlooked the main square - but I felt this town lacked a bit of the charm of Riomaggiore and Manarola. And I promise that was not just the burn in my backside talking (gotta work all that pasta and focaccia off somehow, I suppose).

That final night we hurried back to our apartment to enjoy our last Riomaggiore sunset (really the best view of all the villages), which serendipitously turned out to be not only the most gorgeous sunset of our stay, but one of the most gorgeous I'd ever seen. The bi-polar weather created the most amazing canvas of sky and clouds to create the appearance of a world on fire. The spectacular display made it especially hard to realize we were leaving this magical place the next day...    

Next up: Leaving Riomaggiore for Pisa and Florence.

Daily Crop Cap by Jessica Hische

Some photos courtesy of Mom 

witzerland was one of those places that I'd never really dreamed about. Sure, I thought it would be great to go, but I wasn't exactly clamoring to get there (I think this is how most people who have never been to Germany feel about it as well). It wasn't until we made our way though this beautiful country on our way to Italy that I suddenly understood what all the bank accounts, incredibly high cost of living and that ride at Disneyland are all about. It was as if around every bend in the road, an even better and more impossibly gorgeous scene came into view. Quite literally, the grass really was greener. 

Our stop was so brief in Montreux on Lake Geneva, we really only had time for a walk along the lake, taking in the little bit of sun we had, and then a dinner of take-out Chinese. I know what you're thinking, but honestly, most decent looking restaurants in town were so expensive and chock-full of heavy, German-like cuisine, it just wasn't what we wanted to fill our bellies with between two whole days of sitting in the car. Tasty Chinese (granted, being Switzerland, still the most expensive Chinese take-out I'd ever had) overlooking Lake Geneva and the Alps from my mom's lovely balcony was pretty much perfect. Now if only that sun would have stuck around so we could have had one of those spectacular sunsets over the lake... Still, this ridiculously picturesque town made for the perfect first stop on our trip.

Next stop, the Italian Riviera!

Daily Drop Cap by Jessica Hische

ine fest season is something I look forward to all year. It is summer's answer to the wonderful Christmas markets, when all there is to celebrate is wine - which is of course, plenty of reason for a fest in my opinion. So far, the summer weather has been in full swing with warm, sunny days (as opposed to those summer storms that can creep in and ruin the whole experience). The only drawback for me has been feeling a bit under the weather, so after a few days there on opening weekend, I've neglected to make it back this week. Perhaps it was too much sun coupled with too much alcohol and not enough water, or too much food devoid of much nutritional value (I wait ALL YEAR for those freshly made potato chips with garlic sauce, alas, a proper meal it does not make), but I'm downing the water and resting up for my return to wine-drinking action.

I'm hoping my husband's return - after a two-day business trip to Manchester - will mean accompanying me down and back to the fest for more new wines, which seem never-ending in our local wine country. We had so many the first night, they all got rather lost in a blur of glasses, but our next trip meant sharing one of our favorites, Trenz, with my husband's family before they headed back to the airport to fly home. A little exploring lead me to a try Georg Müller Rosé that was not only delicious, but was chilled perfectly for the hot day. I would highly recommend.

Adding to the weather and seemingly the entire town out enjoying wine (and NOT falling on their face from overindulgence - my, how I love the German's high tolerance for alcohol), is the beautiful setting. I realize I'm a bit biased, but I think our main Platz for fests is unbelieveably lovely. A little bit of the stony walkways and a little bit our imposing red Marktkirche set against the blue, blue sky, the old-world European feel just brings an element of magic to basic tables and benches and some bottles of wine. It's just another time of year where I feel especially lucky for where we live.

Daily Drop Cap by Jessica Hische

Ahhh, Fall... (looks here from Boden)

 have always been obsessed with fall fashion. Perhaps it was because it filled back-to-school shopping bags or because my birthday list-making time coincided so perfectly with all the new fall lines hitting the shelves, but it's always been my favorite season to dress for. Even being a California girl, I never really identified with the whole tank, shorts and flip-flop thing (no wonder I fit in here in Germany). If I could live every day in sweaters and boots, I'd be a happy girl.

While my local friends often refer to me as a fashionista, I'm not much more than just an average dresser who takes particular delight in trying to find things I actually like that fit my lanky limbs, disproportionate body and bigfoot feet. I would say I'm stylish more than fashionable. I'm more likely to take sartorial cues from bloggers (like nat the fat rat and Kendi Everyday, with a touch of Atlantic-Pacific for good measure), than from the runway. I am generally a preppy, Gap-at-heart kind-of-girl, with a recent desire to mix up my wardrobe in ways that say more J.Crew ca. 2012, rather than J.Crew ca. 1995. So without any expectations of designer names and avant-garde styles, here are a few of my favorite things for fall...

After seeing sneak previews of Lands End Canvas's fall and winter lines (oh, that cowl-neck poncho and gold sequined skirt!), I was super excited for it to hit on Wednesday. Alas, much like last season, I was rather disappointed. Perhaps in answer to their petite customers begging for their sizes, it appears they keep rising the hemlines, shortening the inseams and cropping tops. So much for my go-to shop for clothes that actually suited my long frame. Note to these pint-sized complainers: it's called a tailor - get one. Us Amazonians have no option when things are too short for us, other than to look like we're a hooker/borrowing our little sister's clothes. We're SOL. Speaking of, it appears that Canvas has also stopped making shoes in size 11. The disappointment keeps on rolling in. Well, the only thing that got me clamoring for my credit card were these mint green cords (shown here with the pretty but overpriced silk henley blouse), only to discover they are not yet for sale. Perhaps when they are (along with that sequin skirt and poncho sweater), I might also be tempted to pick up this slouchy linen striped tee, mostly because it's one of the few stripe color combinations I don't already own. Until then, I'm waiting to be wowed Canvas.

Lands End equally piqued my interest with items they don't have in stock (the peek of a Fair Isle sweater, shown above) or that they don't carry in my size (this beautiful, year-round boot - see #16, 17 & 21 on Liv's list of 'What I Know About Germans' ), but I still have hope. These ankle cords drew me in with their slim leg - a must when six months out of the year require knee-high boots for warmth alone - and their beautiful mustard-y and oh-so-autumn-y hue. While they look a little boring at first glance, I'm thinking rolled up and put with a chambray shirt, a cozy shawl sweater and my beloved, new and as-of-yet unworn Frye boots, they would make the perfect autumn outfit. I can't wait...

Ahh, Gap. Probably the shop I most miss over here, magnified even more after finding gap.eu is a joke in comparison. Great-fitting jeans and reasonably-priced basics - made out of real fabrics, mind you! - are things I feel lost without in the European retail marketplace. While I regularly place orders with Gap, and it's little discount sister Old Navy- and HUGE thanks to my mom, for shipping them to me - there are two bigger ticket items (re: more than I can justify snapping up on a whim due to a discount) that are topping my fall list: the cotton twill parka and the dark sexy boyfriend jean (neither of which, ahem, come in tall on gap.eu). I just picked up H&M's new slim boyfriend jeans and now I'm obsessed. Just that perfect calculation of slim and slouch make for the most comfortable and flattering jeans. And I used to have an olive safari-type jacket that for some reason I chucked in my massive clothing overhaul in packing up our lives to move over here. Now dying to replace it with a hooded version (thank you, German rain) and this is one of the best I've seen yet. 

Boden's fall line snuck up on me. I realized fall was starting to happen in the retail world and I hadn't heard from Boden in awhile - then, bam! One look and its website and I knew I was in trouble. Fall was there and it was beautiful. Not to mention the new addition of Helena Christensen in their model line up. Well done, Boden! Nothing wrong with moving a little away from the whole 'yummy mummy' image. If only I could look like Helena in 10 years... Ah, but I digress. The clothes. Oh, the clothes. As it usually happens, I peruse, adding things to my online cart with abandon. At only a couple items in and already over a €1000 tally, I realized, as I always do, that this is never going to happen. Why so crazy expensive, Boden?! Here I thought J.Crew was getting a bit big for its britches. Well, if I really had to narrow it down, I think my favorites would be the swishy, polka-dotted cinnamon-colored skirt (oh, that color!) and the grey boiled wool coat (although the green is truly phenomenal, albeit less 'practical'). Boden, why do you torture me so? And why do you not offer coupons in Germany like in the U.S.?! We Deutschland folks deserve that deal just as much, if not more, after all the taxes we pay.

Noa Noa is another one I often pass up due to price, but after picking up the catalog from in front of its shop in town, I fell head over heels in love with this silk paisley dress. Not too overly frooffy or lacy like so much of their stuff, this simple dress in a beautiful print has autumn written all over it. And seeing that my wardrobe is filled with bright, summer dresses or a couple of dark wool ones, this is just what I need to fill that void in between. Or perhaps I could call it my 'birthday dress' for a night out in September...

Madewell is slower to bring out it's fall big guns, same as sister store J.Crew. They trickle a few things, but much of their fall lines remain elusively in 'sneak peek' format to work us all into a frenzy by the time the season actually arrives. While Madewell sometimes turns me off with its teenaged-sizing and overly trendy pieces, there are a couple of things I've been coveting since the preview launched. Namely, this pebbletoss cardigan (mostly because I think it actually looks like giraffe print) and those lace-up boots, the likes of which I have been on an epic hunt for for the past few years. They are always either too bulky, too short, the wrong shade of brown or have that ridiculous zipper down the side (hello? laces!), but these, from the tiny lookbook images, seem to be perfect. Now I'm just crossing my fingers they aren't some crazy-priced designer collaboration that I can't afford. *prettypleaseprettypleaseprettyplease*

The item that has become the holy grail of my fall wishlist? This amazing J.Crew coat. It's only available for pre-order, so there is, as of yet, no price tag. By the looks of it, it's a Collection piece (which is really just a fancy term to justify making it ten times the cost of the rest of their merchandise) and even thinking about owning it is nothing short of a pipe dream. Seriously, I might actually cry when they list the price for this stunner. So, if anyone wins the lottery and would like to buy me a birthday present, it's Fall Lookbook look No.7, item #99554. Thanks.

Now, if only this damn summer weather that has finally hit would just give way to autumn, I can get started...

Daily Drop Cap by Jessica Hische

e live on the second floor (that's the third, in American apartment-speak) in a building with no intercom. There's evidence that there was one at some point, but looks like it hails from the dawn of electricity and has long-since been unusable. At one point, we had a lovely Deutsche Post man who would bring my packages to my door, always with a smile on his face and a joke about my always-barking dog. I haven't seen him in over six months.

I was here all day. What do you mean you 'tried' to deliver??

Now it seems, delivery man or otherwise, people have taken to buzzing the bell, to which I let them in blindly (as there is no intercom to first verify they are not a mass murderer, Bofrost salesperson or Jehovah's Witness) only to then keep buzzing it. Did the door stick? Is this now a secondary post/ Hausmeister/ salesperson trying to get in? How am I to know? Continually buzzing the buzzer, or better yet, standing down in the entryway yelling at me - which of course gets lost in the cacophony of sound with my running appliances and barking dog, not to mention my ears that are nearly deaf to all low, muffled sounds - are not solutions. You, delivery man, have been paid by me or someone else to deliver said package to ME, not to use our poor ground floor neighbor as a reception for the rest of the building or to just leave a delivery note rather than hauling your lazy ass up our stairs. And yes, Landlord, you bear some responsibility here too. How about an intercom, like every other building in town, for the safety of not only your building, but for the people who live in it?

The remnants of what looked to be an intercom, circa 1910 

I'm not even going to go into the stairway project that's been underway for most of the year yet has been left half-finished for the last several months or the rotted out floor that threatens to plummet us into the flat below us with every creak and increasingly buckling tile. Or when he switched all building issues over to an apartment management service (with the availability of only three working hours during only five business days - nice) without telling any of the tenants, and just stopped returning any of our phone calls. When I first laid eyes on our beautiful apartment (note: the beautiful interior of our apartment, the outside looks at though it's seen war - which, in case you were wondering, it hasn't) and realized we were paying a quarter of what we would for something similar in San Francisco, I felt like we had scored. Now, I think I judged too quickly.

Perhaps this is another sign that it's time to make a move...




Daily Drop Cap by Jessica Hische